Starting with stock

Since beginning my professional culinary adventure I have worked in a few kitchens.  Ok more than a few.  I have worked in over 10 restaurants with 4 new restaurant openings under my belt.   Working the back of the house for a few years now I have seen kitchens that work and kitchens that don’t .  Some operations no matter how hard they try cannot avoid being painful cooperate sweatshops producing neigh edible food at best.  I have also worked with passionate dedicated chef owners who believe in the real influence of cooking on people and community.  What sets most kitchens apart at the base is stock. If you find yourself working in a kitchen where high sodium beef base and water start out your beef a jus, then you know what to expect from the rest of the operation.  If you are lucky enough to join a team were the sous chef arrives early in the morning to compile and slowly cook a beautiful stock correctly then be grateful.  With that, a look at a successful stock recipe.

Estouffade (Brown Stock)

Yield 2 ¼ gallons

13 lb beef bones

13 lb lean veal trimmings and bones

1 lb 7 oz roughly chopped carrot

1 lb 7 oz roughly chopped onion

1 lb 7 ox chopped celery

1 bouquet garni (herb sash) :

3 1/2 oz parsley

1/3 oz thyme

1 bay leaf

1 clove garlic

3 oz olive oil

4 oz good red wine

4 oz tomato paste

Remove all meat from veal bones and fry meat until well caramelized.  Remove oil from pan.  Deglaze pan with half the wine.  Add to stock pot.   Place beef bones In a large roasting pan and roast at 400 for 1 hour.  Paint bones with the tomato paste and roast for an additional 30 minutes.  Add bones to the stock pot.  Deglaze roasting pan with wine and add to stock pot.   Fill the stock pot with cold water.  Bring to a boil then reduce to a gentle rolling simmer.  Add aromatics 1 hour before finishing the stock.  You can cook this stock for 12 hours to perfection, however if you reach your desired flavor profile prior to that stop cooking, strain and cool.  Remember during the cooking process to strain frequently and add water when needed.  When finished strain and rapidly cool or freeze for later use.

  1. #1 by Cleo Coyle on November 1, 2011 - 11:57 pm

    Thank you!

  2. #2 by Dionne Baldwin on November 3, 2011 - 11:33 pm

    So in a manner of speaking (in most cases literally) you can judge an establishment by their stock. I do love a good stock and a quality stock that is hand-crafted and not just-add-water is something that takes time and the right intentions. Thank you for sharing this! Well put.

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